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Refrigerator Not Cooling – What to Check ?

hi guys what I want to show you right now is how to test the thermostat on your refrigerator now this is mainly.

going to apply to say a top freezer refrigerator that only has one temperature sensor that can detect

temperature and that’s going to be in the refrigerator compartment so what you

want to do is gain access to the actual thermostat control and this is what it’s

going to look like behind here and most of the time they’re going to have two

wires coming off of them you have main power wire and then you’re going to have another wire that runs

over to the defrost timer now the defrost timer is what sends the voltage to your evaporator fan your compressor

your defrost heater and stuff like that so this is the when your machine is not in defrost this little piece right here

is what’s going to cause the machine to cycle on and off and what you may end up finding is that say you come down in

the morning come home from work the machine’s not doing anything okay you don’t get a compressor you don’t hear

the fan the dial is turned to you know the regular factory setting or wherever you have it set and nothing it’s not getting

cold no compressor no fan so the first thing you want to do when you discover that problem is go ahead and

make sure the machine is not in defrost and how you’re going to do that and I can show you on this here real quick I grab

my flat head screwdriver before I show you is going to want to find the defrost timer which is this piece right

here that’s your defrost timer now when the machine goes into defrost it’s going to

shut the compressor on the fan off what you want to do is take your flat head screwdriver where the dial is and go

ahead and turn that and make sure that it’s not in defrost now this one here is now out of defrost if you stick your

screwdriver in there you turn it and everything comes on the machine wasn’t defrost now your refrigerators going to

go and defrost three times a day so if you have a no cool problem where it’s  definitely to warm your stuffs thawed

out in your freezer and you turn then it comes out of defrost you may have a bad defrost timer and it was just stuck in

defrost and it was never coming out you have just turned it out of defrost now everything is going to start getting

cold again what you’re going to want to do is replace the defrost timer but if you turn the dial and it’s not a defrost

no compressor no fan not defrost you want to check this right here now what this does basically this opens and

closes opens a circuit closes a circuit so good want to disconnect your refrigerator from the wall so there’s no

power you can test this here with with ohms one these two terminals right here I’m going to pull the plugs off now with

the machine in the on position this should be a closed circuit we find these that should be a closer to voltage

should be able to go from here to the other other terminal back there with no problems at all when you cut the

refrigerator off now there’s no continuity between these two these two pins right here so if you have this into

the on position your refrigerator is not getting cold it’s not in defrost fans not running compressors not running and

there’s nothing going on between the open circuit between these two pins then bad about thermostat so that’s where

you’re going to find you’re either going to find you have a bad defrost timer we’re stuck in defrost or this is bad

which is pretty you know amount wants a common but it happens it happens you know one of these two is usually default

whether it might be stuck in FIFO you go ahead and spin this and everything comes on you’re like oh look

at that it’s back on – timer was bad if it went to defrost and stayed there never wanted to come out it’s only

supposed to be in defrost for maybe maybe minutes and it comes back out and usually doesn’t affect the

temperatures but if you definitely have an issue where freezer stopped freezing your refrigerator is not cold you turn

that dial everything comes on you got a bad defrost timer but if you turn that dial and it still doesn’t come on check your

thermostat you should have a closed circuit between these two pins when it’s in the on position you know unless of

course it’s as cold as it needs to be then it’s going to open up but you know chances are if it’s too warm in your.

refrigerator and this is open and it’s on that’s bad now I hope I’ve made this clear enough for you to to understand

and like always if you have questions just leave them in the comment section below I can elaborate a little bit more.

on it or you know actually show you but I you put your meter ohms you know you should have a closed circuit between you

know these two terminals and if it’s open it’s it’s bad so there you have it and like always thanks for watching and

a good good luck and use common sense when you’re working on your refrigerator so you don’t hurt yourself especially

when you’re working with voltage and stuff like that but in a case like this you know we’re not really working with.

voltage you know before you take this out of your refrigerator go ahead and find your defrost timer give it a little.

spin just to make sure that it’s not in defrost and that’s why your compressor and your fan are not running but if you.

if you did that no compressor no fan you know disconnect the machine from the wall and check this voltage should be.

able to pass from one terminal to the other it should be a closed circuit when the dial is in the on position

so there you have it that’s how you test the thermostat on a regular old refrigerator thanks for Reading.

Refrigerator Repair & Diagnostic – Not Cooling Properly – Electrolux – Frigidaire

welcome back to another in-home diagnostic Content brought to you by appliance Content comm for the repair

today what you’re gonna need is a quarter inch extension for your drill or a quarter-inch nut driver a multimeter

wire strips flashlight and electrical tape okay today what we’re looking at is a Frigidaire refrigerator and as you can

probably see from the displays up here that the freezers at your fresh food is at they’re both set to be at and

at respectively for the temperatures so it is not cooling at all and when I

can show you or at least inform you ups that you’ll know to look for is that

this refrigerator if I open the freezer up I can hear the fan running the fan in

there is your evaporator fan that’s the fan that moves all the cold air from

across R evaporator into the fresh food section and recirculates back around so

with that with lights on and fans on that’s telling me that we have a

compressor issue in the back in the back it’s either a compressor is not working

right the starting components are not working right or we’re stuck with

something completely burned out I would say it could potentially be a defrost

issue but since the fan is on it is not stuck in defrost in this unit itself if

you have this type of control setting up here inside here is your defrost Control

Board and if it was stuck in defrost we would have no faint on either so we had

to do now is wait to pull the unit out get to the compressor in the back I’m

add that compressor in the back off the compressor there’s going to be three

pins coming off of it once I remove the starting components I’m going to use my

meter to check for the actual ohms resistance across to every to every

combination of the three and you’re going to have three separate readings

two of the readings will add up to the total of the other reading that will

tell you what your windings are and and I check from each pin to ground to

make sure it’s not shorted out to ground if all that checks out okay

chances are you have bad starting components you could have potential

damage to the inside and compressor but that’s not something you could test for

there is a universal starting opponent which I will essentially use on this

unit if that’s the problem to get it back up and running so I’m gonna pull

the unit out now as we get to the back okay so what we’re gonna do now is we’re

gonna remove the screws pull in the back panel onto the unit I’m trimming with a

panel just slide the back up your waterline just so you don’t go to remove

your waterline and I’m looking at do we have a to come see compressor you can

still use the starting components on the compressor being it’s a Frigidaire from

my experience and just our experience that you’d have a potentially a higher

fail rate with the starting opponents I would put on the unit I just need to

double check and make sure it’s not the actual compressors damaged and that it

is the actual starting opponents and it go from there so what we have to do is

we have to remove the starting opponents which the starting opponents are right

inside here you have your overload in your relay for your starting components

right in here what we’re going to do is they have a little plat a little metal

clip pulling them on to take that metal clip off it hooks on the bottom and

wraps around and then hooks on the top so I’m gonna go ahead just check it to

see if I have any problems with the compressor so the bottom two pins are

showing me but not about what are they still fluctuating the top

and the pin closest to me with a better look it’s right it

it’s fluctuating quite a bit settling right around five and five and a half so

we’re pretty close as far as a whining go then the double check them again

there’s this one down here he’s right at so it is pretty close

I can’t definitely say if it’s a bad compressor at this point or not because

the the windings are showing fairly close well they should be registering

I’m going to now check for continuity on the check for it being shorted to ground

all right so no short to ground so what we’re going to do now is discuss with

the customer options and make a decision on the repair from here all right so

what we’re going to do first is we’re going to get the starting opponents

pulled back out of the inside of the unit we’re hoping that we get them out

fairly easily and the Lions can flex some you just don’t want to bend them to

significantly so you get two-part components back out you got the

components back out you’re going to separate them there’s actually two

separate pieces you’re gonna reuse this piece right here

this is just basically your overload start relay on this thing you do that

the rattle I told her this this relay is bad so I set that aside I’m gonna plug

anything back in yet we’re gonna eliminate the plug off of this plug that

was on to the starting opponents I’m gonna peel back these wires a little bit

I’m gonna use is I am using a universal starting point cap it basically works on

all compressors for a refrigerator you decide to follow your directions

properly to hook it up and I’ll explain to how I’m hooking this one up as we go

through the kit comes with two wire nuts and it comes with the starting opponent

it has two black wires that are by themselves which are for the actual

power leads that we had stripped back on the unit it has a red white and black

wire that according to the package the diagram shows exactly which ones to hook

it up to it has your compressor which says common start run and tells you what

color wire goes to those plugs or pins off of your compressor so I like to lay

it on the floor and since this one has one pin on top and two pins on bottom I

lay down the ground just like the way that the picture looks as it is on there

so I can look and say that the back one which is the farthest one from me is the

white wire so I’m gonna take my white wire I’m gonna push it back on to that tent I

have a push on my parent the other bottom warrior is the red so I’m gonna

push my red wire onto the bottom pin and then that leaves me my black wire which

goes to the top and pin this by itself which is the common once I have them

secured into place I’m going to refined the two wires that I had snipped free

because I matter which black wire goes to which wire coming from your unit you

find them you put two of them together and then I wire tie them after I do wire

tie I make sure I don’t have any wire sticking out the bottom make sure my

wire tie is on there securely okay my other black wire to the remaining wire

left from my unit now put them together and twist my wire ties on my wire down

there now they’re nice and tight so you start seeing the wires actually twist

around each other what’s that down there now on this one it has and you if you the same one as I do to you are see

for there’s two plugs that are in line with the red and the white and

there’s an overload relay which you want to plug back into the unit will do that

plug back in you want to find the plugs that you had disconnected and unplugged

plug them back together and once you get them plugged back together before

buttoning up and putting the whole unit back together I like to take my power

cord and plug the unit back in and we have compressor so that took care of our

problem  it could run for one day one week one

month one year ten years with this component on there I cannot really say

which way because there is always a potential for internal damage to the

unit and I can already feel it is removing heat from the inside of the

refrigerator the wire the hose over here is very warm and then ones on the other

side are cold I’m going to reassemble I’m gonna place these units back these

pieces back inside the unit make sure when you tuck them in there that they’re

not touching the rollers so that you can’t have them back in there far enough

and not have them come disconnected for some reason I’m going to put the bat

back back on its four screws and that completes our repair for the day so as

I’m putting this back together some of the nice wood reminds you of and make

sure this bat panel has to go back on the unit this back panel allows the fan

to move air properly across your condensing coils so that it will remove

heat properly if it’s not back on there you will have a cooling problem you will

not be able to make your refrigerator or your freezer cold enough to maintain

your food temperature and then right here you probably took

one of these off the back if you have a water line going to your unit you want

to make sure your water line is in here it is for your own safety and your house

is on safety if this is not on there you have the potential to hold the water

line out of your water valve or break it off at your water valve and if that

happens water will flow out of your main water line until you turn it off at the

basement at the crawl in a closet who knows where it is hopefully you do and

if it does break it will continue to flow water until you turn it off so make

sure that it is on to secure your water valve in your line to the back of your

refrigerator that concludes our repair for the day thank you for watching another quality

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